Home Again, Rome Again

Have I mentioned that I love Rome?  We returned to the city Wednesday afternoon after a morning drive from Volterra.  Our group stayed in the Hotel Modigliani, near the Spanish steps and Trevi fountain.  We began our stay in room with a guided tour of the Coliseum, Roman Forum, and Pantheon.  Our guide, Francesca, was incredible!  She encouraged us to feel and “see” ancient Rome as it once was.  She said her job was to give all the experiences we cannot find in a book, and she did a great job!  The Coliseum is fascinating.  Did you know it was used for 400 years?  Originally the whole structure was covered in colorful marble and fabric.  It’s fascinating to think about all that took place there – animal fights, public executions, and gladiator battles.  Francesca reminded us of the political motivations for the emperor to confine and entertain his subjects.  Sadly, over the years, the Coliseum has been looted and destroyed.

Inside the Coliseum, including a partially reconstructed floor

We also walked through the Roman Forum.  It is pretty awesome to envision all the buildings that must have once stood where there are now ruins.  We saw the remains of basilicas and temples.  The temple to Jupiter had whitewashed boards mounted that told of the “daily news,” including horoscopes!  The House of the Vetal Virgins was my favorite part of the Forum.  It is beautiful, complete with reflecting pools, marble statues, and a rose garden.    The cobblestone in the forum is still original.  Isn’t it crazy to think about all the people who must have walked on it before me?  Julius Caesar, Constantine, Peter and Paul, Michelangelo, gladiators, vestal virgins, millions of ordinary every day people . . .  It’s an overwhelming thought, how things circle and paths cross.

House of the Vestal Virgins at the Roman Forum

The Pantheon may have been my favorite part of ancient Rome.  It is so simple, yet so amazing.  I love that the top of the dome is actually open air – letting in the sunshine or the rain.  Our guide said that Michelangelo walked there every day to study.  He designed St. Peter’s basilica after the Pantheon, but made it smaller, out of respect for the ancient temple.  I would love to spend some afternoons there contemplating.

To finish off the day we took a night stroll through Rome.  The atmosphere in Rome after dark is fantastic.  We went to the artist hangout at Piazza Nuvano, and then strolled over to Trevi Fountain.  I threw in my coins to wish for a return to Rome and true love.  The fountain was ridiculously crowded.  I literally crawled over people to get there.  It is much larger in person than I expected and very beautiful.

Yesterday morning we woke up and headed to Vatican City.  I must say, it was a little overwhelming.  I’m not sure I have ever been anywhere as large and ornate as the Vatican museum.  It became clear to me that over the centuries, the Pope has often been more of a king than a priest, and gave concrete evidence of the sheer power and wealth of the Catholic church.  My favorite parts of the Vatican were the map room and Raphael rooms.  The map room is incredible – maps from all over the Mediterranean cover the gold and orange hall.  The ceiling is decorated with paintings of saints throughout the ages.  Raphael’s rooms were fantastic.  I love his style of painting – so vivid and alive.  I also enjoyed the Sistine Chapel, but it was incredibly crowded, and I had trouble focusing and reflecting there.  We went to St. Peter’s basilica as well, but by that time I was pretty tired and my only real impression is that it was a giant church.  I did enjoy the domes.  There’s something very . . . heavenly about their structure.

Yesterday afternoon I took a nap.  When I woke up I looked out my window at the Roman skyline and thought to myself . . . wow am I going to miss this!  Italy has been just fantastic.

Last night was our farewell dinner.  I cannot believe the tour is already over – the time certainly flew by!  I really enjoyed getting to know the people travelling with me, and I would highly recommend a Rick Steves tour to anyone looking to travel in Europe.  Our guides were fantastic.  So many of the people were friendly and welcomed me to join their family vacations.  I’m really going to miss my new friends.  It’s such a gift to meet likeminded people from all over the world and experience new things together.  I hope to carry the generosity and hospitality of my traveling companions with me in the future.