Taize

From July 10 – 16 I spent a week at Taize, France.  Taize is a small village that houses the first monastery made up of ecumenical brothers.  The brothers come from all different Christian traditions.  Some are ordained in their own traditions and others are not.  There are around 100 brothers in the order, and they serve either in Taize or living among the poor in developing countries.

Taize was begun by Brother Roger.  Brother Roger grew up in Switzerland and went on to study Theology in college.  After college, he moved to Taize, France with the idea of beginning an intentional community.  A lot of France was occupied by the Germans during World War II, but Taize was still located in the unoccupied zone.  Roger began hiding and housing Jews and other refugees from the Nazi occupation.  When the Nazis raided Taize Roger was away visiting his family in Switzerland, and no one was there.  He had to stay in Switzerland for several years because he was wanted by the Nazis.

Roger convinced a few other man to join him in brotherhood while in Switzerland and began their community there.  After the war, they returned to Taize, with the mission of living the Christian life with a goal of reconciliation.  They immediately began ministering to German prisoners of war.  They had the prisoners for dinner and assisted them in other matters as well.  Many people think this act of reconciliation is the reason why so many German teenagers journey to the community today.  The large church at Taize was funded by a German organization seeking to build a symbol of reconciliation in France.

Over time, young people began pilgrimaging to the community.  Pilgrims participate in the brothers’ life of prayer (3 x daily) and mission of reconciliation.  The brothers did not set out to be a pilgrimage site, but over time they have accepted ministry to young people as a central focus of their mission.

I arrived at the Macon-Ville train station around 12:30 on Sunday.  The station is small, and French, and I had no idea where the bus to Taize was located.  I wandered around, trying to find the bus without success.  Eventually, I saw two other women chatting and overheard the word “Taize,” so I asked them, and they showed me where to catch the bus.

It is a 45 minute bus ride from Macon to Taize.  On the way, I met another American named Wes who was also travelling in Europe and planning to spend the week in Taize, and 2 German girls who spoke very good English.  Upon arrival, we were sent to a room in the church where an English speaking Dutch man welcomed us, signed us up for dorms, food, and work, and explained the rules of the community.

I am not sure what I expected from Taize, but reality was not as I’d pictured it.  For some reason the notion of a monastery conjured up visions of a quiet, thoughtful community rooted in prayer.  The community is prayerful and thoughtful, but it is certainly not quiet.  It is a popular destination for Europan teenagers, particularly Germans.  So, there are teenagers running, playing, shouting, and singing all over the place.

I stayed in a dorm with 4 others.  They were all German.  One was a woman about my age, and the other three were 16, 17, and 18.  The room was simple, with 6 bunks and no power outlets.  The bathroom was simple as well.  It contains many sinks, toilets, and showers.  The showers and sinks both run on a timer so that you press the button and get about 8 seconds of water, which is an entirely new showering experience.  Because everyone at Taize has a a job, the facilities are cleaned by groups of young people on a rotating basis.  The cleanliness varied according to the day.

The meals at Taize were also simple.  Generally we got a scoop of rice and beans as well as a piece of bread and fruit or yogurt.  The most interesting part for me is that everyone received only a spoon, bowl, and plate.  The bowl held our fruit, and then later we filled it with drinking water.  For breakfast each day, we got a croissant, 2 sticks of chocolate, a pat of butter, and a bowl of either cocoa or tea.

My experience at Taize was incredible.  I came to dearly love the community and the things that they stand for.  The times of prayer are made up of simple sung chants and a period of silence, which I found refreshing and transformational.  As part of their ministry to reach all people, the chants are sung in a variety of languages.  The Bible readings are also read in a variety of languages.  There is always a translation provided in each language that is present that week.  In addition to the prayer times, each person can participate in a Bible discussion group and some type of work in the community.  My work was reminding people to be silent as they entered the church for prayer times.

My discussion group was amazing.  We were made up of a German, two Brits, 3 Slovakians, and one Dutchman.  We had 3 Catholics and 4 Protestants.  It has literally been years since I have felt so welcomed and affirmed by a group in the church.  Discussions centered around daily readings from the Gospel of Matthew and their application to our lives.  Members volunteered to lead the discussion.  In the spirit of reconciliation, all views were respected and welcomed.  No one had to pass any “theological tests” to have a say.  I became particularly close to Katie, who is from the UK.  We are hoping to connect again next summer.  At mealtimes and at other workshops, I found that there were also several people at Taize who were seeking but did not necessarily identify as Christian.  At least 2 Muslims and many agnostics were participating in our community.

Taize is wonderful because it is set up so well to minister to pilgrims wherever they are on the journey.  Pilgrims can choose to spend a week in silence.  During the week, they are assigned to a Brother or Sister who serves as a sounding board and helps guide their journey.  Communion is served each morning, and Cathoic Mass, Protestant Communion, and Eastern Orthodox Communion are all served in different corners of the church at the same time.  Brothers and sisters are available for individual appointments for people who wish to discuss something in a one-on-one environment.  For teenagers, after the evening prayer, a small bar is set up where they can get one beer or wine (only) and hang out, playing the guitar and goofing off.

In addition to the prayer times, individual times of silence and reflection are encouraged throughout the week.  I found these to be incredibly valuable.  It has been such a long time since I have prioritized silent reflection with God in my life.  It was almost like rediscovering an old friend.  I started some person journeys that have been in the back of my mind for quite some time.

My time at Taize was very much what my soul has been yearning for.  I am so grateful for the opportunities of healing, joy, fellowship, and prayer that I received.  Leaving was difficult because I have no idea how to take those experiences and transfer them into my daily life, but I have committed to at least intentionally incorporate silent periods of reflection into my daily routine.   Even as I was leaving, I made a friend from Germany at the bus stop who was also leaving and we traveled together to my stop at Lyon.   I have great respect for the community, and I am hoping to return next year during my travels.  

Because they ask that you not take pictures in the church, and because I was trying to focus on spirituality and not tourism, I did not take many pictures at Taize.  However, I am including links to 2 Youtube videos about the community.

This is one of the chants from Taize with images from worship in the church.

This Rick Steves clip gives an overview of life at the community.

Home Again, Rome Again

Have I mentioned that I love Rome?  We returned to the city Wednesday afternoon after a morning drive from Volterra.  Our group stayed in the Hotel Modigliani, near the Spanish steps and Trevi fountain.  We began our stay in room with a guided tour of the Coliseum, Roman Forum, and Pantheon.  Our guide, Francesca, was incredible!  She encouraged us to feel and “see” ancient Rome as it once was.  She said her job was to give all the experiences we cannot find in a book, and she did a great job!  The Coliseum is fascinating.  Did you know it was used for 400 years?  Originally the whole structure was covered in colorful marble and fabric.  It’s fascinating to think about all that took place there – animal fights, public executions, and gladiator battles.  Francesca reminded us of the political motivations for the emperor to confine and entertain his subjects.  Sadly, over the years, the Coliseum has been looted and destroyed.

Inside the Coliseum, including a partially reconstructed floor

We also walked through the Roman Forum.  It is pretty awesome to envision all the buildings that must have once stood where there are now ruins.  We saw the remains of basilicas and temples.  The temple to Jupiter had whitewashed boards mounted that told of the “daily news,” including horoscopes!  The House of the Vetal Virgins was my favorite part of the Forum.  It is beautiful, complete with reflecting pools, marble statues, and a rose garden.    The cobblestone in the forum is still original.  Isn’t it crazy to think about all the people who must have walked on it before me?  Julius Caesar, Constantine, Peter and Paul, Michelangelo, gladiators, vestal virgins, millions of ordinary every day people . . .  It’s an overwhelming thought, how things circle and paths cross.

House of the Vestal Virgins at the Roman Forum

The Pantheon may have been my favorite part of ancient Rome.  It is so simple, yet so amazing.  I love that the top of the dome is actually open air – letting in the sunshine or the rain.  Our guide said that Michelangelo walked there every day to study.  He designed St. Peter’s basilica after the Pantheon, but made it smaller, out of respect for the ancient temple.  I would love to spend some afternoons there contemplating.

To finish off the day we took a night stroll through Rome.  The atmosphere in Rome after dark is fantastic.  We went to the artist hangout at Piazza Nuvano, and then strolled over to Trevi Fountain.  I threw in my coins to wish for a return to Rome and true love.  The fountain was ridiculously crowded.  I literally crawled over people to get there.  It is much larger in person than I expected and very beautiful.

Yesterday morning we woke up and headed to Vatican City.  I must say, it was a little overwhelming.  I’m not sure I have ever been anywhere as large and ornate as the Vatican museum.  It became clear to me that over the centuries, the Pope has often been more of a king than a priest, and gave concrete evidence of the sheer power and wealth of the Catholic church.  My favorite parts of the Vatican were the map room and Raphael rooms.  The map room is incredible – maps from all over the Mediterranean cover the gold and orange hall.  The ceiling is decorated with paintings of saints throughout the ages.  Raphael’s rooms were fantastic.  I love his style of painting – so vivid and alive.  I also enjoyed the Sistine Chapel, but it was incredibly crowded, and I had trouble focusing and reflecting there.  We went to St. Peter’s basilica as well, but by that time I was pretty tired and my only real impression is that it was a giant church.  I did enjoy the domes.  There’s something very . . . heavenly about their structure.

Yesterday afternoon I took a nap.  When I woke up I looked out my window at the Roman skyline and thought to myself . . . wow am I going to miss this!  Italy has been just fantastic.

Last night was our farewell dinner.  I cannot believe the tour is already over – the time certainly flew by!  I really enjoyed getting to know the people travelling with me, and I would highly recommend a Rick Steves tour to anyone looking to travel in Europe.  Our guides were fantastic.  So many of the people were friendly and welcomed me to join their family vacations.  I’m really going to miss my new friends.  It’s such a gift to meet likeminded people from all over the world and experience new things together.  I hope to carry the generosity and hospitality of my traveling companions with me in the future.

Tuscans and Etruscans

July 4 -6

After leaving Cinque Terre, we stopped by the town of Lucca for the afternoon.  Lucca is an old Renaissance town that still has Renaissance era walls surrounding it.  The walls are very wide on top, and the people have turned them into a park.  It was a beautiful, charming place to stop for an afternoon.  We got lunch to go at a Foccacia bakery.  I had a focaccia, prosciutto, and cheese sandwich.  We took our food up on the wall and sat in the park for a picnic.

After eating, we rented bicycles and biked around the perimeter of the city on top of the wall.  It was really neat to see the view of the city and the view outside the city from the wall.  My guide lives in a village just outside of Lucca, so that added to our experience.  I really enjoyed the afternoon there.

Park and Renaissance wall at Lucca

We continued on to the town of Voltera.  Voltera is built high on top of a hill in the Tuscan country side.  It has beautiful views on all sides of the city.  The Twilight series is apparently set in Voltera.  Historically, Voltera has been known for its alabaster.  On the night we arrived we enjoyed another giant group meal in a restaurant, complete with house wine, varios antipastas (including the bread salad and egg plant), farro (Italian term for spelt) with peas and carrots, beef with grilled zucchini and eggplant, and “English soup,” (the Italian term for trifle) for dessert.  I really enjoy our group meals because it is delicious food and great company.  They last around 3 ½ hours . . . it’s really a whole evening affair.

The next morning we met a local guide for a tour of Voltera.  Voltera is probably my least favorite place that I have visited, but it was still very interesting.  We saw an ancient Estruscan gate that is still intact, which was very impressive.  The Estruscans were the native people in Italy before the Romans arrived.  We also toured an Etruscan museum and saw hundred and hundreds of urns that were carved to hold the ashes of deceased Etruscans.  The urns are intricately carved from alabaster, and include details about the individual’s life, much like ancient Egyptian and Roman sarcophaguses.

My roommate, Bente, under the Etruscan arch

My favorite part of the tour was the alabaster workshop.  Alabaster is a type of stone that is softer than marble.  For centuries, people in Voltera have worked with Alabaster to produce all sorts of things.  When carved and finished, alabaster is translucent.  The original windows in many old buildings around the city are actually made from alabaster – it functions a lot like frosted glass.  They also make sconces, vases, dishes, statues, and jewelry.  We got to watch an artisan turn a ball of alabaster into a bowl, and it was really neat.  I purchased some alabaster trinkets.  They’re my own purchases so far in Europe.

Alabaster workshop in Voltera

We also visited the Roman theater there, which is an archaeological remain of a Roman theater and bath house.    It seems very similar to the remains in Rome, and it’s always neat to see something so ancient.  Voltera, like many Italian cities, was built on top of the ruins from previous civilizations.  The theater had been under a soccer field for decades before they discovered the artifacts.

Roman theater

                                                                                                            

Yesterday afternoon, we toured the Palazzo Vitti.  It is the home of a very wealthy Italian family, and the woman who owns it actually still lives there.  Each room was filled with lavish decorations and historical masterpieces.  Some of my favorites were the porcelain collection, a Chinese chess set from the 1500s in which each figure was intricately hand carved, an amber Buddha made from the sap of a cherry tree, original alabaster windows, frescoed ceilings, and hand painted repeating patterns on the walls that function like wall paper.  In many ways, the palaces in Europe remind me of the Biltmore house, except that they are filled with different items from different places.

Last night, we went to a wine tasting at a local wine bar in Voltera.  They hosted the tasting in their cellar, which happens to be an ancient Etruscan home.  We could see the home, and the street.  The present day street filled with shops and restaurants was built on top of the ruins.  The semolina was very knowledgeable.  We tasted 4 different Italian wines.  He taught us about looking at the wine, smelling it, and then tasting it.  Three of the wines were traditional Italian wines made according to the strict Italian regulations.  The fourth is called a “Super Tuscan” wine.  It is made in Tuscany using French methods and then shipped to the U.S. market, where it is very popular.  I found out that the table wine here I have been drinking with our food is a Chianti.

Wine tasting in Voltera

Currently, I am on the bus to Rome and we are passing beautiful countryside.  We drive past fields and fields full of sunflowers.  I love it!  Italy is an amazing country full of beauty , history, and delicious food!

Fields and fields of beautiful sunflowers :)

Pesto and Pure Magic

We arrived in the Cinque Terre on the afternoon of Saturday, June 2.  Our group is staying in Levanto, which is not actually one of the five villages in the Cinque Terre, but it is another beach town very nearby.  Bente and I took a stroll around Levanto to get acquainted.  The beach here is different.  Most of the beach is privately owned.  The company that owns the beach covers it with lawn chairs.   You have to pay to sit in a lawn chair, but they will also do things like bring you drinks and food.  There is a small section of public beach, which is free, and not taken care of very well.  We got gelato while we strolled.  I had raspberry and chocolate, which was delicious.  Prices were much more reasonable than they were in Florence. 

Saturday night we had a seafood feast at our hotel.  The owner of the hotel is also a chef, and he prepared a seafood buffet for us, complete with traditional Italian dishes.  My favorites were the “fish soup,” as an appetizer, and the pesto lasagna.  The fish soup was full of all types of seafood – mussels, calamari, fish, shrimp, and more.  It was very tasty!  We also had fresh anchovies, marinated mushrooms, local greens friend in pastry, sundried tomatoes, tiny crab cakes that looked like hushpuppies, and steamed mussels.  For dessert, they served cream puffs drenched in chocolate sauce and lemoncino.  Lemoncino is an Italian dessert drink.  It is made from grain alcohol, lemon peels, and sugar.  It is bright yellow in color and very strong.  I didn’t really like it, but it was neat to have the experience of trying it.

Carlo, the owner of the hotel, also did a pesto demonstration for us, to show us how he makes his pesto.  Basically he uses basil leaves, olive oil, garlic, and pine nuts and mashes them together with a mortar and pestle.  We were all surprised to learn that it’s important to remove the “core” or green center, of garlic.  His pesto was very delicious – probably the best I have ever tasted.  We also learned that sometimes pesto in the US is bitter because people put it in a food processor and the heat burns the oil from the basil.  To counteract this, you can add ice to the food processor.

Carlo making pesto

On Sunday we had a free day to enjoy the Cinque Terre.  The Cinque Terre are five fishing villages up on top of mountains by the sea.  They were founded originally by fisherman, who had to build high because if their homes were closer to the sea they were attacked by pirates.  Over centuries, families have developed a terraced farming technique and grow olives, grapes, and vegetables.  They also farm sheep and goats on the hill, which is why the region is known for its goat cheese.  The region is also the birthplace of focaccia bread and pesto.

One of the villages at Cinque Terre

There is a hiking path connecting the five villages.  It is very steep, difficult terrain, and for a long time it was the only way to travel from one village to another.  Today there is a road that was built in the 1970s, a train, and a ferry by sea.  I set out on Sunday to hike the trail connecting the villages.  I hiked the whole thing!   Although it is not terribly long, it is very steep and has hundreds and hundreds of stone stairs, so it was a physical challenge.  The views were fantastic, and we got to see local farmers tending their gardens as we walked.  It was probably my favorite part of the journey so far.

View from the hike

 I loved the challenge of the hike, the beautiful scenery, and the opportunity to experience local culture all at once.  The weather was perfect and the scenery was truly magical.  Butterflies flitted about.  Sunlight poured in through tree branches.  Foamy seawater splashed against dramatic cliffs and tiny colorful houses dotted the horizon, all tumbling on top of one another among the rocks and olive trees.  Flowers blossomed wherever I looked.  The scent of lemon and olives permeated the air.  There are many more paths to hike because the area has been turned into a national park.  I would love to return for about a week sometime and spend time each day hiking, exploring one village, and enjoying the beach.

Terrace farms along the hike

The last stretch of the hike is known as the “Lover’s Lane.”  It is an easier stretch, and it is paved.  Traditionally teenagers who were dating between the two villages would walk down the path together.  Today it is covered with graffiti, but it is all graffiti about being in love such as hearts, initials, and song lyrics.  There are also tiny locks all over the fences on this stretch.  Couples put a lock on the path to symbolize that their love will last forever.

Locks on the Lovers' Lane

I hiked the path from about 9:45 until 1 p.m., then I took a ferry to Pointe Vente, at the tip of the island.  I met some friends from my group there for gelato and a drink.  I tried a “Prosecco with sorbet” which was very delicious!  It is lemon sherbert drenched in Prosecco, Italian champagne.  Then we all rode the ferry all the way back to Levanto.  The ferry stops at a port in each of the five villages, so it was neat to see where we had hiked and get a view of each village from the sea.

Renaissance Italy

This morning after a continental breakfast at the hotel we had an 8:30 a.m. appointment at the Uffizi gallery.  Our guide, Antonio, was incredible.  We spent nearly two hours walking through the galleries, getting lessons and anecdotes about the Italian Renaissance.  We began with a look at pre-Renaissance paintings of the Madonna and child.  We moved on to works by Brunelleschi, Leonardo, Michelangelo, and Raphael.  It was fascinating to see examples from different stages in Italian art (in person!) and learn how the artists influenced one another.  My favorite pieces were Leonardo’s Annunciation and Michelangelo’s The Holy Family.  Both are just incredible, breathtaking pieces of art.  Leonardo’s command of geometry and perspective is awesome, and I love how Michelangelo used bright colors and sculpturesque painting to bring the holy family to life.

After touring the Uffizi, a friend and I went to the Palazzo Davanzati, which is a museum of the Davanzati family’s 14^th century home in Florence.  I was amazed at the decadence and comfort available during the 1300s.  This family had at least 4 indoor bathrooms.  They had a system to collect rainwater in the courtyard of their home for domestic uses.  Their rooms were meticulously hand painted in repeating patterns that resemble contemporary wallpaper.  They had beautiful art dishes, and furniture, including beds.  We really enjoyed looking around.

After that Palazzo, we continued on to the Pitti Palace, where the Medici family once lived.  We bought tickets only to the gardens and surround outdoor museums.  The view from the gardens was breathtaking – truly gorgeous.  We also got to visit a porcelain museum, which was really cool.  It made me think of all my tea sets . . . but these were much prettier than most of mine.  They also had an outrageous chandelier, which we assume was original to the palace.

Chandelier, complete with blown glass flowers, at the Pitti Palace

View from the Pitti Palace Gardens

This afternoon, we took a “backstreets” tour of Florence with a local guide.  She took us to the church of Santa Maria Novella, which is a Dominican church with tons of history including the Medici family scandals and Michelangelo as a young man.  There is so much mystery and scandal surrounding the Medicis that I am fascinated.  I've already downloaded a book about them to my "Kindle" on my phone!We also went to the Santa Maria Novella perfumery, which was originally run by monks using herbs to create different apothecary treatments.  

Lastly, we visited an artisan who creates Florentine mosaics.  The mosaics are amazing.  Masters take tiny pieces of Italian stone, cute them into shapes, and glue them from the back (using a special glue made from beeswax and pine sap).  They then polish the front.  The result is a work of art that looks just like a painting.  It takes them several years to complete each piece, and it seems to be a dying art, which is sad, because it is obvious that it require much talent and patience, and the result is gorgeous.  

Tomorrow we are moving on to the Cinque Terre.  Ciao!

Fabulous Florence

Today began with an adventure.  I left myself plenty of time for getting lost between the Convent and the hotel in Florence.  I told myself to relax, that I would get there when I got there . . . to be Italian in mindset.  I shoved everything I brought into my one rolling backpack and locked both zippers so that I would not have to worry too much about pickpockets on the bus and train, and then I set out.

I waited at the correct bus stop, and caught the correct bus to the train station.  That’s when things started going downhill.  I bought a ticket at the self service ticket machine.  My train was leaving in 15 minutes, but I bought a “flexible” ticket that would be good for 24 hours, just in case.

Well, for the life of me I could not figure out which platform my train was leaving from.  There are departure and arrival charts all over the station, but none of them listed a train from Rome to Florence at the time my train was leaving.  After the time of departure had passed, I finally found an information counter with people who spoke English.  The lady told me that my ticket was still good (which I knew), that the next train would depart in 30 minutes, and that she couldn’t help me figure out which platform; I needed to check the board.  I told her that’s how I missed the first train, and she shrugged.

So again, I walked all around the train station checking the boards.  Again I couldn’t find my train listed, and again I missed the departure.  Not knowing what else to do, I eventually returned to the information counter.  This time a man helped me.  He could tell I was upset and kindly explained that my train was headed “in the direction of Venice” and that I needed to check the departure boards for a train to Venice -  not Florence.  My ticket did not say that, so I’m still not sure how I would have ever figured it out.  But armed with that information I easily found and boarded the next train to Florence.

While on the train I noticed that the man next to me was reading Rick Steves  Italy, and wondered if he was on the tour.  When he got out his information packet, I knew for sure.  I introduced myself to him and his wife.   When we got to Florence we walked together to the hotel and then grabbed lunch before meeting the rest of the group.  Steve and his wife, Liz, are from Chicago, and Liz is a high school English teacher, so we had lots to talk about.

Walking into Florence, the view of the Duomo is spectacular.  It seems like a backdrop for a movie set.  It is so huge, and beautiful.  I have never seen so much marble in all my life, and it is all different colors of green, pink, and white.

View of the Duomo and the Baptistry

Around 3 p.m. we met the rest of the group.  So far, it looks like a good group of people.  I am rooming with another lady, Bente, who teaches elementary school in Atlanta.  There are several other teachers on the tour as well - I would say at least 8 out of the 24 participants.  We began our tour with a Renaissance walk around Florence, which was quite interesting.  I’m already enjoying having someone around to tell me about the history and significance of the art that we are seeing instead of having to look it up myself.

We then walked to the Academia to see Michelangelo’s David.  It’s very impressive – much larger than I realized.  We learned some about Michelangelo’s life and work as well as sculpture during the Italian Renaissance.  I also toured a musical instrument museum that is located in the Academia.  It included the Medici’s early hammer dulcimer, made from marble (I thought of you, Sally), harpsichords, and the world’s first upright piano.  It was a really neat exhibit but unfortunately pictures were not allowed.

The best part of today, however, was dinner.  I finally had the Italian meal I have been dreaming about for years!  We went to a local restaurant and had a traditional Italian meal.  All the food and wine was included in the tour price.  We had the house red wine and sparkling water.  We then began with antipasta: a bread salad that is made from stale bread, tomatoes, cucumbers, bay leaves, and lettuce with oil and pepper.  It was delicious.  The next course was the pasta: pasta with smoked prosciutto, zucchini florets, and alfredo sauce.  The third course is the pasto, or meal: they call it Robespierre - flaming pork (they pour liquor on it and set it on fire when they serve it) and spinach.  Last came a table full of deserts from which to choose.  I, of course, had the tiramisu.  It was amazing – probably my favorite thing I have ever tasted!!

Tiramisu

To end the night we strolled down to the city hall and watched a little of a ballet they were performing outside.  I walked down with a couple and a family from our group.  I did not go out in Rome after dark since I was alone, but Italy is actually very pleasant when the sun goes down.  It’s finally cool enough to stroll and enjoy it.  All in all, it was a really great night, and a wonderful beginning to our tour of Italy.  I’m definitely looking forward to tomorrow.

More Rome

This morning I woke up and went down to breakfast at the Convent.  Breakfast, which I assume is fairly traditional for Italy, is always a large cold hollow white roll, served with butter, honey, and an assortment of marmalades.  They also have tiny packages of toast, in case the roll is not enough, juice, and cappuccino.  It’s actually quite good.  So far I’ve had the orange and strawberry marmalades.

This morning at breakfast there was a monk who is staying here.  The sister introduced me, and he said “boof a lo beel.”  Puzzled, I responded “no capisco” (I don’t understand.)  He smiled, repeated the phrase again, and said “Americana, si?  It hit me that he was asking if I know “Buffalo Bill.”  I laughed and said, “Si, Buffalo Bill.”  Then the sister asked me what a buffalo is, so I struggled to describe it, settling on “similar to a really big cow.”  It’s funny that Buffalo Bill is the reference that came to the man’s head when he thought of America.  It’s always neat to get a peek into another person’s world like that.

Yesterday I spent in a haze.  I couldn’t sleep well the night before due to excitement and/or jet lag, but I set out to see some sights in the morning just the same.  First I went by the Arch of Constantine.  Constantine had it built to mark his victory in battle against Maxentius.  This is the battle that legalized Christianity as the official religion of Rome.  Think about what a huge impact it had on the world!  Constantine had the arch decorated with art that glorified other Roman emperors.  There are images of Marcus of Aurelius, Augustus, and Trajan.  It’s funny to think about what a giant influence one little battle had on the course of history, when some major wars really seem to accomplish nothing at all.

Arch of Constantine

I also went to St Peter-in-Chains church, which supposedly houses the chains that held Peter when he was crucified.  It also has a famous statue, Moses, that Michelangelo completed for the tomb of Pope Julius II.  It is a pretty awesome statue, and includes Jacob’s wives Leah and Rachel.

The chains that held Peter at St. Peter-in-Chains Church

After visiting the church I went to the Musei Capitolini, which is right beside Campidoglio.  Campidoglio is a city square designed by Michelangelo, which includes his grand staircase (quite a walk, and slippery!) and an ancient statue of Marcus Aurelius in the center.  I also went by the Mamertine Prison, where Peter, Paul, and many other Christian prisoners were held   I saw the outside of the prison, but the inside was not open for tours.

After museum I found myself nodding off on the double decker tour bus, so I decided it was probably time to return home and take a nap.  Even after a long nap yesterday afternoon, I slept great last night, and was ready to get up this morning for more adventures.

This morning I set out to take the bus to the train station (a dry run for my trip tomorrow).  Unfortunately, I couldn’t find the correct bus stop.  There are bus stops all over the place, but I could not find the one for the 360 bus.   I wondered around and got myself lost again, but I ended up in Piazza St. Giovanni.  It is a gorgeous church with some really neat artwork nearby.  Then I found a metro stop and took the metro to the train station.

Walking from the train station, I visited 2 famous churches.  I went to Santa Maria della Vittoria to see Bernini’s statue St. Teresa in Ecstasy.  It is really beautifully done, and has an interesting story attached to it.  I was not familiar with St. Teresa, but the description in the church was all about how God’s angel caused her to have terrible pain, but she delighted in the pain because it was a pain that came from being close to God. 

Bernini's Saint Teresa in Ecstasy

The other church I went to today was Santa Maria Maggiore.  This church is really famous because it has a lot of old mosaics and famous paintings.  It reminded me more of the churches that I visited in Mexico.  They were having mass when I visited, but I was still encouraged to come in and walk around the back of the sanctuary.  The music was really beautiful.  They had people at each door collecting money for the Pope’s Charity and a gift shop that sold souvenirs such as jewelry, postcards, rosaries . . . and even shot glasses!  (I had a chuckle when I pictures some churches in the U.S. trying to sell shot glasses.)

I had read a lot about how “modest dress” is required when visiting these churches.  Apparently women are expected to cover their soldiers and backs, and should not wear shorts or skirts that come above the knee.  (This is in no way reflective of the way women actually dress in Italy – spaghetti straps and short skirts seem to be the norm).  Santa Maria Maggiore was the first church where I have seen the dress code actually enforced.  The men taking money at the door for the Pope’s Charity would actually stop women and direct them towards a box containing white shawls to cover themselves (it also had a donation box for the Pope’s charity).  I was wearing a t-shirt and capris, so nobody gave me a hard time, but I found the whole process interesting.  Italian women attending mass were wearing sleeveless dresses, and apparently nobody found that offensive.  At Santa Mara della Vittoria, the dress code was posted on the door before you entered, so I took a picture.  I didn’t see anyone actually enforcing it there.  There does not seem to be any type of dress code for men. 

Rules for modest dress at Santa Maria della Vittoria

I finished out my day today with a trip to the National Museum of Rome’s engraving collection.  It looked a bit boring at first, but it actually turned out to be quite fascinating.  The museum begins with the beginning of written language in Italy, and gives examples of engravings for evidence of all sorts of things in society: social class, the status of women, private and public religious practices, etc.  I found the burial engravings and sarcophaguses particularly interesting.

Early Christian burial engraving

For lunch today I tried some more pizza (better this time!) and finally tasted gelato.  I got mango.  J  I think I’m going to have some more gelato in a minute for dessert.  I did (finally) successfully locate the correct bus and bus stop, so I think I’m going to be able to avoid another Roman taxi in the morning.  I will spend the evening readying my luggage and my brain for my trip to Florence tomorrow.  I am meeting my tour group there to begin a tour of the rest of Italy.  Wish me luck!

**I am keeping a different blog for some students I am working with this summer.  The information is pretty much the same, but there are more pictures there.  If you are interested in the Roman artifacts, I posted a lot: http://nermsfastforward.pbworks.com/w/page/41889021/Roman-History.**

Today I Fell in Love with Rome

Today I fell in love with Rome.

I set out to the city wearily.  Remembering the stories of pick-pockets and scam artists, stinging from the taxi driver yesterday who refused to give me correct change, tired already of people looking at me sympathetically and asking “Inglese?” I was having some second thoughts about this trip.  But I decided to just jump in.  You have three days in Rome, I told myself, go make the most of it.

I mentioned yesterday that the taxi driver did not know the location of the convent where I am staying.  What further complicated the matter is that the road where it’s located is not on any of the maps of Rome provided by tourist information or guidebooks.  I was concerned about this when I arrived, but it turns out that it’s not on the maps because it’s just outside of the original walls of the city.  It’s still very close to everything: about 1.2 km to the Coliseum.

Ancient Roman Walls I pass through on my way to anywhere

After studying maps online and the giant map on the wall in the lobby, and asking the Sister on duty for directions to the bus station and the Coliseum, I set out.  Those of you who know me well will not be surprised to learn that I promptly got lost.  The great thing about Rome is, even though I was lost, I kept seeing really neat old things around me (and by old, I mean ancient).  I decided to make the most of it and sight-see where my feet led me. 

After about an hour of walking I found myself in the Piazza Venezia.  I did not know it was the Piazza Venezia, but I did notice beautiful monuments surrounding a square and breathtaking views of some ancient remains.  I stopped to take pictures and enjoy the views.

Later, I came across a bus stop for trambus 110, the city’s open-air sight seeing bus (yes, I had been looking for it all morning :-p).  I hopped on and took a tour through Vatican City.  I hopped off at the next stop: Piazza Popolo.  So far, this is my favorite part of Rome.  In the center of the square is an Egyptian obelisk from Ramses II.  It used to be at the Circus Maximus and was moved to this square later on.  Beautiful churches filled with amazing art surround the square.

I went into the Santa Maria del Popolo – what a gift!  One of the chapels there was designed by Raphael, who based his design upon the design of the Pantheon.  Two famous bankers (go figure) are buried within the chapel, in tombs shaped like the Egyptian pyramids.  It also contains two sculptures by Bernini, but unfortunately, the sculptures were covered up (they must be preserving them or cleaning them or something).

Ceiling in the chapel by Raphael

The church also houses the Cerasi Chapel, which contains two paintings by Caravaggio: Conversion of Saul and Crucifixion of St. Peter.  I was quite impressed by both paintings.  I was also impressed by the priests there, who seem to see the tourism their church brings as a chance for ministry (something I have not encountered before in Europe or Mexico when touring cathedrals).  They were very kind and would offer directions, ask where we were from, etc.  I might be my happiest and most peaceful when I get to look at incredible art.  Although I often associate the Catholic church with corruption, it is good to be reminded of some of the great things it has helped to create.

After touring the church I sat at a restaurant on the square for lunch.  I had café freddo (cold coffee) and pizza with mushrooms and prosciutto.  Sadly, the pizza was unimpressive, but the coffee was very . . . different.  Super strong, like espresso, but frozen.  Errrrn, Jeffrey, and Mama – you were made to drink Italian coffee.

After lunch I wandered around the piazza a little more, then hopped back on the bus and continued by tour around room (it includes an audio tour in English).  Even from the bus, the Coliseum is impressive.  I won’t tour it this week because it’s included in my guided tour later on, but just being near it feels pretty amazing.  It’s a similar feeling to when I saw the pyramids at Tenochtitlan in Mexico – reverence for something so ancient with so many stories to tell.  I realize again how young the United States is, how young I am, how big the world and time and God must be.

Coliseum from the bus

I got off the bust at the Coliseum, knowing it is close to the convent.  I shopped at a stand for some postcards (20 for 1 euro!) and bought some watermelon at another.  By that time I had drank 2 bottles of water, was having a hard time finding another public fountain, and wouldn’t buy bottled water based on principle.  It is incredible how hot it is here.  Siestas are definitely a good idea in the middle of the day. 

Again, I got lost, but by recognizing some landmarks and street names, I was able to navigate my way back to the (mistaken) path I took this morning, and find my way back to the Convent.  I really like staying here.  It’s off the beaten path but feels quite safe.  It’s definitely in more of an Italian living neighborhood instead of a tourist area, but that’s okay with me.  People stare at me when I go into the little shops or trattatorias, but so far they’ve been very kind.  Last night the lady at a bar where I ordered a grilled sandwich, or tramezzini, was very patient.  She taught me the Italian name for each of the foods, and how to order, having me repeat after her.  They also gave me correct change even though I had only a large bill to pay with (something I’m no longer taking for granted). 

The sisters are incredibly gracious, always asking if I am okay and showing me little things to make my stay more comfortable.  If I walk around the halls I can sometimes hear them singing which is lovely.  After supper, they gather in the courtyard after supper for one big Italian nun gossip session (it seems).  I was startled by how loud they were last night!  Then around 17:00 the hall rings with “good night!”  “good night” as each person is wished good night individually.  They check on me when I leave, warning me to watch my money and giving me pointers to avoid pick pockets.

I have decided to stay here another night rather than going to Florence early.  I like it here.  There is so much to do and see in Rome, and it’s $90 cheaper to stay here than at the hotel in Florence.  Today I realized that I can be perfectly happy and spend little money if I just tour around all the churches and look at their masterpieces.  Tomorrow the museums will be open as well (they take Monday off instead of Sunday), and I’m hoping I can get a reservation to see the Borghese art gallery tomorrow or Wednesday.  Hopefully, I’ll get a little better at navigating to and from the convent.  J

Rome is perhaps the most international place I’ve ever been to.  There are English speakers around – tons of American tourists – but there are also Chinese and Japanese tourists, Italians who do not live in Rome, Brits, Mexicans, Africans, and Spaniards.  Within the city it’s obvious that I’m a tourist but apparently not obvious that I’m American.  A few people approached me and asked if I spoke Spanish.  (Or maybe it’s just that when I try to speak Italian it comes out in Spanish.  Although the sister here was impressed this morning at breakfast when I asked for coffee in Italian.  She rapidly began talking to me in Italian, to which I had to explain that I actually only know the really important words – like coffe.)

Although everyone has warned me about pick-pockets (and I’m taking precautions) altogether I’ve felt quite safe.  So far men here have been much less aggressive than they were in Mexico, nobody has made me feel uncomfortable, and there are police around at many of the big sites.  One big difference between Rome and where I was in Mexico (and it may be different in other parts of Italy – I don’t know) is that no one seems to think it’s strange to see a woman walking alone.  The streets are filled with women from everywhere going everywhere.  In terms of dress, I seem quite moderate: I’ve seen everything from girls changing shirts in the middle of parking lots to nuns covered from head to toe.  I didn’t take the bus or metro today, and I’ve heard those are some of the sketchier places, so we will see.  But for now I returned with everything that I left with, and for that I am grateful.

If you made it to the end of this post, I’m impressed.  There’s always so much to write about when traveling – everything is new and interesting and a lesson.  I’m so grateful to get to be here and see and hear and live   . . . thanks to all of you who encouraged me to come.  I’m sure there will be much more to write about so stay tuned . . .

Arrivederci!