More Rome

This morning I woke up and went down to breakfast at the Convent.  Breakfast, which I assume is fairly traditional for Italy, is always a large cold hollow white roll, served with butter, honey, and an assortment of marmalades.  They also have tiny packages of toast, in case the roll is not enough, juice, and cappuccino.  It’s actually quite good.  So far I’ve had the orange and strawberry marmalades.

This morning at breakfast there was a monk who is staying here.  The sister introduced me, and he said “boof a lo beel.”  Puzzled, I responded “no capisco” (I don’t understand.)  He smiled, repeated the phrase again, and said “Americana, si?  It hit me that he was asking if I know “Buffalo Bill.”  I laughed and said, “Si, Buffalo Bill.”  Then the sister asked me what a buffalo is, so I struggled to describe it, settling on “similar to a really big cow.”  It’s funny that Buffalo Bill is the reference that came to the man’s head when he thought of America.  It’s always neat to get a peek into another person’s world like that.

Yesterday I spent in a haze.  I couldn’t sleep well the night before due to excitement and/or jet lag, but I set out to see some sights in the morning just the same.  First I went by the Arch of Constantine.  Constantine had it built to mark his victory in battle against Maxentius.  This is the battle that legalized Christianity as the official religion of Rome.  Think about what a huge impact it had on the world!  Constantine had the arch decorated with art that glorified other Roman emperors.  There are images of Marcus of Aurelius, Augustus, and Trajan.  It’s funny to think about what a giant influence one little battle had on the course of history, when some major wars really seem to accomplish nothing at all.

Arch of Constantine

I also went to St Peter-in-Chains church, which supposedly houses the chains that held Peter when he was crucified.  It also has a famous statue, Moses, that Michelangelo completed for the tomb of Pope Julius II.  It is a pretty awesome statue, and includes Jacob’s wives Leah and Rachel.

The chains that held Peter at St. Peter-in-Chains Church

After visiting the church I went to the Musei Capitolini, which is right beside Campidoglio.  Campidoglio is a city square designed by Michelangelo, which includes his grand staircase (quite a walk, and slippery!) and an ancient statue of Marcus Aurelius in the center.  I also went by the Mamertine Prison, where Peter, Paul, and many other Christian prisoners were held   I saw the outside of the prison, but the inside was not open for tours.

After museum I found myself nodding off on the double decker tour bus, so I decided it was probably time to return home and take a nap.  Even after a long nap yesterday afternoon, I slept great last night, and was ready to get up this morning for more adventures.

This morning I set out to take the bus to the train station (a dry run for my trip tomorrow).  Unfortunately, I couldn’t find the correct bus stop.  There are bus stops all over the place, but I could not find the one for the 360 bus.   I wondered around and got myself lost again, but I ended up in Piazza St. Giovanni.  It is a gorgeous church with some really neat artwork nearby.  Then I found a metro stop and took the metro to the train station.

Walking from the train station, I visited 2 famous churches.  I went to Santa Maria della Vittoria to see Bernini’s statue St. Teresa in Ecstasy.  It is really beautifully done, and has an interesting story attached to it.  I was not familiar with St. Teresa, but the description in the church was all about how God’s angel caused her to have terrible pain, but she delighted in the pain because it was a pain that came from being close to God. 

Bernini's Saint Teresa in Ecstasy

The other church I went to today was Santa Maria Maggiore.  This church is really famous because it has a lot of old mosaics and famous paintings.  It reminded me more of the churches that I visited in Mexico.  They were having mass when I visited, but I was still encouraged to come in and walk around the back of the sanctuary.  The music was really beautiful.  They had people at each door collecting money for the Pope’s Charity and a gift shop that sold souvenirs such as jewelry, postcards, rosaries . . . and even shot glasses!  (I had a chuckle when I pictures some churches in the U.S. trying to sell shot glasses.)

I had read a lot about how “modest dress” is required when visiting these churches.  Apparently women are expected to cover their soldiers and backs, and should not wear shorts or skirts that come above the knee.  (This is in no way reflective of the way women actually dress in Italy – spaghetti straps and short skirts seem to be the norm).  Santa Maria Maggiore was the first church where I have seen the dress code actually enforced.  The men taking money at the door for the Pope’s Charity would actually stop women and direct them towards a box containing white shawls to cover themselves (it also had a donation box for the Pope’s charity).  I was wearing a t-shirt and capris, so nobody gave me a hard time, but I found the whole process interesting.  Italian women attending mass were wearing sleeveless dresses, and apparently nobody found that offensive.  At Santa Mara della Vittoria, the dress code was posted on the door before you entered, so I took a picture.  I didn’t see anyone actually enforcing it there.  There does not seem to be any type of dress code for men. 

Rules for modest dress at Santa Maria della Vittoria

I finished out my day today with a trip to the National Museum of Rome’s engraving collection.  It looked a bit boring at first, but it actually turned out to be quite fascinating.  The museum begins with the beginning of written language in Italy, and gives examples of engravings for evidence of all sorts of things in society: social class, the status of women, private and public religious practices, etc.  I found the burial engravings and sarcophaguses particularly interesting.

Early Christian burial engraving

For lunch today I tried some more pizza (better this time!) and finally tasted gelato.  I got mango.  J  I think I’m going to have some more gelato in a minute for dessert.  I did (finally) successfully locate the correct bus and bus stop, so I think I’m going to be able to avoid another Roman taxi in the morning.  I will spend the evening readying my luggage and my brain for my trip to Florence tomorrow.  I am meeting my tour group there to begin a tour of the rest of Italy.  Wish me luck!

**I am keeping a different blog for some students I am working with this summer.  The information is pretty much the same, but there are more pictures there.  If you are interested in the Roman artifacts, I posted a lot: http://nermsfastforward.pbworks.com/w/page/41889021/Roman-History.**

Today I Fell in Love with Rome

Today I fell in love with Rome.

I set out to the city wearily.  Remembering the stories of pick-pockets and scam artists, stinging from the taxi driver yesterday who refused to give me correct change, tired already of people looking at me sympathetically and asking “Inglese?” I was having some second thoughts about this trip.  But I decided to just jump in.  You have three days in Rome, I told myself, go make the most of it.

I mentioned yesterday that the taxi driver did not know the location of the convent where I am staying.  What further complicated the matter is that the road where it’s located is not on any of the maps of Rome provided by tourist information or guidebooks.  I was concerned about this when I arrived, but it turns out that it’s not on the maps because it’s just outside of the original walls of the city.  It’s still very close to everything: about 1.2 km to the Coliseum.

Ancient Roman Walls I pass through on my way to anywhere

After studying maps online and the giant map on the wall in the lobby, and asking the Sister on duty for directions to the bus station and the Coliseum, I set out.  Those of you who know me well will not be surprised to learn that I promptly got lost.  The great thing about Rome is, even though I was lost, I kept seeing really neat old things around me (and by old, I mean ancient).  I decided to make the most of it and sight-see where my feet led me. 

After about an hour of walking I found myself in the Piazza Venezia.  I did not know it was the Piazza Venezia, but I did notice beautiful monuments surrounding a square and breathtaking views of some ancient remains.  I stopped to take pictures and enjoy the views.

Later, I came across a bus stop for trambus 110, the city’s open-air sight seeing bus (yes, I had been looking for it all morning :-p).  I hopped on and took a tour through Vatican City.  I hopped off at the next stop: Piazza Popolo.  So far, this is my favorite part of Rome.  In the center of the square is an Egyptian obelisk from Ramses II.  It used to be at the Circus Maximus and was moved to this square later on.  Beautiful churches filled with amazing art surround the square.

I went into the Santa Maria del Popolo – what a gift!  One of the chapels there was designed by Raphael, who based his design upon the design of the Pantheon.  Two famous bankers (go figure) are buried within the chapel, in tombs shaped like the Egyptian pyramids.  It also contains two sculptures by Bernini, but unfortunately, the sculptures were covered up (they must be preserving them or cleaning them or something).

Ceiling in the chapel by Raphael

The church also houses the Cerasi Chapel, which contains two paintings by Caravaggio: Conversion of Saul and Crucifixion of St. Peter.  I was quite impressed by both paintings.  I was also impressed by the priests there, who seem to see the tourism their church brings as a chance for ministry (something I have not encountered before in Europe or Mexico when touring cathedrals).  They were very kind and would offer directions, ask where we were from, etc.  I might be my happiest and most peaceful when I get to look at incredible art.  Although I often associate the Catholic church with corruption, it is good to be reminded of some of the great things it has helped to create.

After touring the church I sat at a restaurant on the square for lunch.  I had café freddo (cold coffee) and pizza with mushrooms and prosciutto.  Sadly, the pizza was unimpressive, but the coffee was very . . . different.  Super strong, like espresso, but frozen.  Errrrn, Jeffrey, and Mama – you were made to drink Italian coffee.

After lunch I wandered around the piazza a little more, then hopped back on the bus and continued by tour around room (it includes an audio tour in English).  Even from the bus, the Coliseum is impressive.  I won’t tour it this week because it’s included in my guided tour later on, but just being near it feels pretty amazing.  It’s a similar feeling to when I saw the pyramids at Tenochtitlan in Mexico – reverence for something so ancient with so many stories to tell.  I realize again how young the United States is, how young I am, how big the world and time and God must be.

Coliseum from the bus

I got off the bust at the Coliseum, knowing it is close to the convent.  I shopped at a stand for some postcards (20 for 1 euro!) and bought some watermelon at another.  By that time I had drank 2 bottles of water, was having a hard time finding another public fountain, and wouldn’t buy bottled water based on principle.  It is incredible how hot it is here.  Siestas are definitely a good idea in the middle of the day. 

Again, I got lost, but by recognizing some landmarks and street names, I was able to navigate my way back to the (mistaken) path I took this morning, and find my way back to the Convent.  I really like staying here.  It’s off the beaten path but feels quite safe.  It’s definitely in more of an Italian living neighborhood instead of a tourist area, but that’s okay with me.  People stare at me when I go into the little shops or trattatorias, but so far they’ve been very kind.  Last night the lady at a bar where I ordered a grilled sandwich, or tramezzini, was very patient.  She taught me the Italian name for each of the foods, and how to order, having me repeat after her.  They also gave me correct change even though I had only a large bill to pay with (something I’m no longer taking for granted). 

The sisters are incredibly gracious, always asking if I am okay and showing me little things to make my stay more comfortable.  If I walk around the halls I can sometimes hear them singing which is lovely.  After supper, they gather in the courtyard after supper for one big Italian nun gossip session (it seems).  I was startled by how loud they were last night!  Then around 17:00 the hall rings with “good night!”  “good night” as each person is wished good night individually.  They check on me when I leave, warning me to watch my money and giving me pointers to avoid pick pockets.

I have decided to stay here another night rather than going to Florence early.  I like it here.  There is so much to do and see in Rome, and it’s $90 cheaper to stay here than at the hotel in Florence.  Today I realized that I can be perfectly happy and spend little money if I just tour around all the churches and look at their masterpieces.  Tomorrow the museums will be open as well (they take Monday off instead of Sunday), and I’m hoping I can get a reservation to see the Borghese art gallery tomorrow or Wednesday.  Hopefully, I’ll get a little better at navigating to and from the convent.  J

Rome is perhaps the most international place I’ve ever been to.  There are English speakers around – tons of American tourists – but there are also Chinese and Japanese tourists, Italians who do not live in Rome, Brits, Mexicans, Africans, and Spaniards.  Within the city it’s obvious that I’m a tourist but apparently not obvious that I’m American.  A few people approached me and asked if I spoke Spanish.  (Or maybe it’s just that when I try to speak Italian it comes out in Spanish.  Although the sister here was impressed this morning at breakfast when I asked for coffee in Italian.  She rapidly began talking to me in Italian, to which I had to explain that I actually only know the really important words – like coffe.)

Although everyone has warned me about pick-pockets (and I’m taking precautions) altogether I’ve felt quite safe.  So far men here have been much less aggressive than they were in Mexico, nobody has made me feel uncomfortable, and there are police around at many of the big sites.  One big difference between Rome and where I was in Mexico (and it may be different in other parts of Italy – I don’t know) is that no one seems to think it’s strange to see a woman walking alone.  The streets are filled with women from everywhere going everywhere.  In terms of dress, I seem quite moderate: I’ve seen everything from girls changing shirts in the middle of parking lots to nuns covered from head to toe.  I didn’t take the bus or metro today, and I’ve heard those are some of the sketchier places, so we will see.  But for now I returned with everything that I left with, and for that I am grateful.

If you made it to the end of this post, I’m impressed.  There’s always so much to write about when traveling – everything is new and interesting and a lesson.  I’m so grateful to get to be here and see and hear and live   . . . thanks to all of you who encouraged me to come.  I’m sure there will be much more to write about so stay tuned . . .

Arrivederci!